Live like a king on the Queen Mary

Aug 22 2008 By Sam Wylie-Harris

Voyage on the QM2 brings back bygone age of luxurious travel

"It's a crossing, not a cruise," said the Italian film director over the rim of his Martini. We were enjoying after-dinner cocktails in the Commodore Club on our first night aboard the world's grandest ocean liner, the Queen Mary 2.

And that is the difference. Sailing west from Southampton to New York on La Grande Dame is like taking a step back in time. It's a luxurious mode of travel.

There's no island hopping and no day-trippers. This is life on the high seas as of yesteryear. And it's one big fancy dress party!

We were in a Princess suite with a private balcony, comfortable sitting area, mirrored dressing table and a marble bathroom.

Numerous cupboards and large walk-in wardrobe gave the game away; Cunard doesn't expect its passengers to travel light and if you like to dress to impress, you won't be disappointed here.

Three formal black tie nights are a tall order for anyone. But it's more cocktail dresses than evening gowns and there was quite a loose interpretation of that from what I witnessed on the dance floor.

The QM2 is 1,132ft long and its grand interior is a mixture of polished wood, marble and chandeliers. Sweeping staircases make for the perfect entrance, and she boasts the largest ballroom at sea. There are three smart restaurants to dine in depending on your choice of stateroom - the Queen's Grill, Princess Grill and the Britannia Restaurant, all with 'white-glove' service. The daily routine was so relaxed that I found the voyage to be the ultimate 'switch off'. No mobile phones and no contact with the outside world. None of the usual holiday hassle of car hire or taxis and airports. Six nights at sea with a panoramic vista of nothing else but the Atlantic Ocean.

There are pools, whirlpool baths, hot tubs and numerous sunbathing decks to choose from. Relaxing in a lounger with a blanket to shield the breeze and tucking into complimentary cucumber sandwiches was rather lovely.

At night it felt very surreal, a bit like something out of Titanic. Oh, and just to prepare you, they play the theme music from the film in all the public areas!

There are some modern touches too. Cunard offers an extraordinary choice of recreation over 14 decks, including sport facilities, shops, bars, lounges, and more casual dining. There's a planetarium, theatre, cinema, casino and library and a daily programme of structured activities.

With so much excitement going on at night, I spent most of my days in the Canyon Ranch Spa Club. The spa, beauty salon and gym cover two decks. They have an aqua therapy centre and the choice of treatments is vast. I recommend the Aromatherapy and Thai massage. And if you feel like splashing out, it's worth experiencing the Euphoria Body Treatment.

Dinner in the Princess Grill was a highlight. Favourites from the menu were Ahi Tuna Tartar and Beef Carpaccio, Grilled New York Pepper Steak with Parmesan Chips and Alaskan Crab Cake & Blackened Scallops.

After all that partying, it was amazing we had enough energy left for New York!

As the sun rose at 5.30am we sailed into Manhattan, with heat haze already rising over the city. The Statue of Liberty came majestically into view and when she passed my balcony, I knew it was time to say goodbye to my sea legs and get ready for land.

Travel facts...

Sam Wylie-Harris was a guest of Cunard which offers six-night transatlantic crossings on QM2 in either direction from £899 in October, including return flight. Cunard reservations: 0845 071 0300.

Among specialist agents, Virgin Holidays Cruises offers transatlantic cruises on QM2 until November 2008. Virgin Holidays Cruises reservations: www.virginholidayscruises.com