Living the manor life

Jun 20 2008 By Nicola Boden

Get a taste of cosy pubs and restaurants in city of Cork

It is not every hotel room that comes complete with its own door bell and golf putter, but this is exactly what awaits you at the splendid Hayfield Manor Hotel in Cork City.

One mile from the centre of Ireland's second largest city and barely six from the airport, this five-star establishment owned by Joe and Margaret Scally has thought of everything. The couple began running hotels over 30 years ago starting at The Killarney Royal which was handed down through Margaret's family.

Budget airlines have done wonders for Cork's tourism business and Hayfield Manor has become a focal point for influential locals.

Its easy access to some of Ireland's top golf courses probably explains why Prince Andrew's name figures in the visitors' book alongside Sir Henry Kissinger, 007 star Pierce Brosnan and former Irish president Mary Robinson.

Golf putters might not be to everyone's taste but I can testify that the sport is pretty addictive, even to the beginner.

As for the door bell - it perfectly encapsulates the hotel's respectful atmosphere. Each time someone comes to your door, they will ring the bell as if it was your home.

After a relaxing time at the spa, it was time for a trip to the compulsory tourist stop of the region - Blarney Castle and a rendezvous with the legendary Stone of Eloquence.

The Castle is only about 15 minutes drive from the hotel. It sits in beautifully cared-for gardens with a large stream and the restored family home Blarney House 200 yards away - but there is no doubt the majority of visitors are here for the strange kissing ritual.

The Stone, believed by some to be half of the original Stone of Scone, was presented to Cormac MacCarthy by Robert the Bruce in 1314 in recognition of his support in the Battle of Bannockburn.

MacCarthy went on to build the castle almost 600 years ago and the Stone was placed in a particularly inaccessible spot right at the top within a side wall.

But if luminaries including Winston Churchill and Sir Walter Scott can climb the winding staircase to reach it, then pretty much anyone can.

To lock lips on the requisite spot is not easy and I had to try three times before achieving it. You have to lie on your back and hang backwards over the drop while an attendant grips your legs.

It is a bizarre experience and despite the legend that you will never again be lost for words, I cannot say I felt any more talkative afterwards. For a whistle-whetter after all that climbing and stone-kissing, you cannot do better than the Rob Roy pub in the centre of Cork. With a TV screen for practically every drinker and extremely friendly punters, it is the perfect place to catch any sport going on. Drinking aside, the city also has The Coal Quay packed with market stalls for those who like to browse for any hidden antiques while fans of the more macabre can tour the Old City Gaol, preserved as it would have looked in the 19th century.

Those more keen on some fresh, sea air than the whiff of dingy dungeons can head, instead, for the medieval town of Kinsale on the coast, about 25km away.

Brimming with cosy pubs and restaurants and with activities such as sailing, fishing and dolphin-watching for entertainment all on hand, it is a great spot for a packed day out.

After a hard day on the tourist trail, there is no need to head out for the night because the Hayfield has two restaurants to choose from and an extremely well-stocked bar where the whiskey selection alone spans at least two shelves and Beamish, Murphys and Guinness are all on tap.

Travel facts...

Nicola Boden was a guest of Hayfield Manor Hotel in Cork City, which offers two-night B&B breaks with dinner on one night from E265 (approx £210) and three nights B&B from E399 (£320). Spa treatments best booked in advance.

Hotel reservations; 00353 (0)21 484 5900/www.hayfieldmanor.ie

Aer Lingus flights reservations: 0870 876 5000 and www.aerlingus.com.

Cheaper accommodation in the Cork area can be found at www.townandcountry.ie featuring town, country and farm houses and also in Alastair Sawday's Special Places To Stay: Ireland (Alastair Sawday Publishing, £12.99)