Pirate Blackbeard's beautiful hideaway

May 16 2008 By Kate Whiting

Discover real American treasure on North Carolina's perfect coast

In Ocracoke harbour, the pelicans perch on wooden mooring posts in the setting sun, as if to welcome the fishing boats back after a long day out at sea.

And they couldn't have found a better - or more secluded - place to rest.

Ocracoke, one of the narrow sandbar islands that run down the coast of North Carolina, was for years one of America's best-kept secrets.

In 2007, however, it was thrown into the global spotlight when its virgin beach beat more than 650 sandy havens to be named the best beach in the entire United States.

It was the first time a beach outside of the more popular sunspots of Hawaii and Florida had been chosen, and sitting on the warm white sand I could easily see why.

Ocracoke island boasts 15 miles of uninterrupted, undeveloped, pristine beach with gently sloping sand-dunes and spectacular views stretching out over the Atlantic.

Besides its beach, the island, and the surrounding Outer Banks boast some of the most extraordinary history, set in a carefully preserved landscape.

Notorious pirate Blackbeard, an Englishman known as Edward Teach, had often used the island as a refuge when taking a break from smuggling and pillaging.

He was finally killed by Lieutenant Maynard, who chopped off his head in a ferocious battle, just off Springer's Point in 1718. Paddling through Teach's Hole, you could almost sense the battle, which had once rocked the now still waters.

But perhaps more eerie was the legend that Blackbeard's headless body had swum around his boat three times before it sunk to Davy Jones' Locker.

Among the many small cemeteries dotted around the island is one dedicated to four British sailors from HMS Bedfordshire.

Dinner was at the Back Porch restaurant and wine bar - one of the island's culinary gems - offering such delicacies as steak with Roquefort and an excellent range of seafood dishes.

I stayed at the Captain's Landing, a wooden hotel in keeping with the traditional 18th century houses, which had spectacular views over Ocracoke harbour and lighthouse. The next morning, I cycled round to the harbour to catch a boat over to the deserted town of Portsmouth on a neighbouring island.

To give ourselves some geographical perspective, we headed to the historic town of Beaufort on the mainland, which lies at the heart of North Carolina's Crystal Coast.

From Beaufort, it's easy to take day trips to other sandbar islands, which make up the Outer Banks, and one of the most spectacular is Cape Lookout.

Just a quick powerboat ride away, you're on another wild beach that could almost rival Ocracoke's, with warm currents making the sea as tempting as a bubble bath.

Cape Lookout's lighthouse, with its large black and white diamond pattern, is iconic of the Outer Banks and so are the wild ponies, which roam nearby Shackleford Banks.

Beaufort itself is the third oldest town in North Carolina and was considered a health resort by Victorians, who drank its special seawater tonic with honey. North Carolina's coast has become a hotspot for diving - with some 2000 ships found wrecked in its rocky waters.

Understandably the coastline is called the Graveyard of the Atlantic.

As the sun glinted off the Atlantic at the end of another beautiful day on the Outer Banks it was easy to see why North Carolina is so justifiably proud of its unique coastline.

Travel facts...

Kate Whiting flew from Heathrow to Raleigh Durham as a guest of American Airlines. A package from £575 including seven nights' car hire is bookable through operator Bon Voyage: 0800 316 3012/www.bon-voyage.co.uk

Same package ex-Manchester from £575, and ex-Gatwick from £559.

Accommodation can be arranged at Beaufort Inn (001 252 728 2600); Captain's Landing (001 252 928 1999); and The Cove B&B (001 252 928 4192).

Information is available from North Carolina Division of Tourism: 0207 367 0937/www.northcarolinatravel.co.uk