Braving Colorado

Jan 25 2008

Gareth Llewellyn feels on top of the world cat-skiing in the States

"This isn't the place for novices," barked the American ski guide rather aptly dubbed The General.

"This is for expert skiers and if you are struggling, we will have to pull you off the mountain because this is a day to rip it up," added the square-jawed, six-foot-plus slab of raw testosterone.

I fixed a nervous smile in the direction of a fellow skier to give the impression I wasn't worried by such macho talk, but when I saw the look on his face, I could see he shared the same trepidation I felt.

I was already weak-kneed before the rather stern induction speech inside a yurt at 11,640 feet on top of Keystone's Dercum Mountain, Colorado.

I'd also been fitted with a 'transceiver' for the first time. This box-like device is strapped to your body and emits a signal so rescuers can find you, dead or alive, under a mass of snow, rocks, trees and anything else an avalanche cares to bring down the mountainside with it.

If I was going to back out, now was the time to do it. But having travelled thousands of miles for the privilege of a day of cat-skiing, cowardice was simply not an option.

Cat-skiing is named after the tank-like snowcat vehicles used to ferry skiers up and down the mountains to reach the parts the lifts cannot reach.

Over the past three years, the activity has really taken off in Keystone, a delightful resort positioned metaphorically and geographically in the shadows of its bigger and more prominent neighbours, Vail and Breckenridge.

The resort is in the unusual position of having several bowls, comprising more than 1,100 acres of steep and deep snowy terrain, that are not serviced by lifts.

This vast mountain wilderness was once only open to skiers with legs of steel and the patience to undertake a lengthy hike. But now, thanks to a dedicated bunch of ski patrol staff and two trusty snowcats, powder runs to die for are yours for the ridiculously low price of Û80 a day.

At the current exchange rate, that roughly works out around £4 a run as the excellent guides from Keystone Adventure Tours aim to get in as many as 10 different runs per session.

Of course, it would be difficult to place an exact value on the pure pleasure of skiing on waist-deep virgin snow without a single person in your line of vision, but I would confidently estimate it to be much higher than £4 a run.

If you're new to off-piste skiing, it will take a little time to adjust to the sensation of manoeuvring through deep snow.

The guides are also brilliant - very knowledgeable, extremely capable on skis, and very amiable. Apart from the stern induction speech of course.

The views from this high-altitude and isolated mountain top are little short of breathtaking. A fitting end to a magnificent day of skiing can be found at the Alpenglow Stube. At 11,444 feet at the top of Keystone's North Peak, the award-winning gourmet restaurant offers views of the Continental Divide and a roaring open fireplace to blast the chill from your fingertips.

There are many other thrills to be had within a short journey of Keystone.

Fellow Summit County resort, Breckenridge, is one of the most popular northern American ski resorts for Brits to visit. At 12,840 feet, Breckenridge's Imperial Express is the highest ski lift in the northern hemisphere and takes you to the top of Peak 8 and it actually feels more like being on the top of the world.

With the snow records of many European resorts faltering in recent winters and the favourable exchange rates in the US, the likes of Breckenridge, Vail and Keystone look likely to become even more popular with the lucrative British ski market.

Travel facts...

Gareth Llewellyn was a guest of Crystal Ski, which offers seven-night B&B stays from £697 (four sharing) in the Brecken-ridge Mountain Lodge, departing January 2008 including direct flights Gatwick-Den-ver, plus transfers or free rental car.

Connecting flights available at supplement of £85 return from major regional airports.

Prices for Keystone start at £619 per person (four sharing, for seven nights) in the Mountain House Condos departing January 2008, including direct flights Gatwick-Denver, plus transfers or free rental car.

Crystal Ski reservations: 0870 160 6040 and www.crystalski.co.uk