Ski with the stars

Dec 14 2007 Nicola Boden

Nicola Boden heads to the resort of Chamonix in the French Alps for a luxury weekend break

As we climbed into the back of the army truck, the same thought seemed to be flitting through everyone's minds, "How did a luxury ski weekend endup like this?"

We had left the warm fug of a Savoyard stew and aperitif lunch after a morning's skiing in the shadow of Mont Blanc to be squashed tightly together on the hard metal benches of an army van, on the promise of going to a secret location.

As we bumped along up the mountainside with tyres struggling to grip the narrow track and our drivers mumbling in incomprehensible French, our guide kept quiet until we ground to a halt in a clearing.

We were confronted by a row of skidoos (like a jet ski but for snow) for the next part of our ascent. We duly loaded up two by two and juddered off higher up the mountain, now hardly caring where we were headed. From my pillion seat, I could see stunning views of mountain peaks covered by only the wispiest of clouds.

Our destination was a hidden chalet nestled in snowdrifts where an enormous bowl of spicy vin chaud awaited us. From here, those of a "James Bond" disposition might later ski or sledge down the mountain by torchlight while average skiers would settle for another form of descent.

Under orders, we knelt in the deep snow outside, awaiting our carriage. At first we could only pick out a distant whirr, but soon a helicopter appeared over the lip of the mountain and flew straight at us.

It landed practically on the toes of our boots after flinging bucketfuls of snow in our direction. But the floating flight down over the valley made up for my slightly soggy camera and chaffed face, and the message was clear: Chamonix offers far more than simply skiing if you leave the beaten track to find it.

Certainly our accommodation, Le Hameau des Chalets Philippe, was about as far from the beaten track as you can get.

Its creator, French film and theatre producer Philippe Courtines, described his reaction on first seeing the site back in 1983 as a "coup de coeur" - love at first sight - and it is easy to understand why. This is utter picture-postcard land.

Perfect for a romantic winter break, my miniature chalet has a bijou dining area and kitchen downstairs, with a bathroom and loft-style bedroom upstairs.

To give an idea of the level of seclusion, this was where the then-Chancellor Gordon Brown was once holed up to meet the US Secretary of the Treasury, John Snow.

But for most visitors, Chamonix is not a destination to talk politics but a place to ski - or hike, snowboard, husky ride, the list is endless. At Chalet Philippes, there is someone ready to guide you through the maze, because everything is organised through concierge service Pollen-Brooks Leisure.

Its boss Dean Pollen, an ex-RAF navigator bounding with energy, never fails to pull something special out of the bag, whether you are a couple wanting a romantic winter picnic or a group of guys seeking an adrenalin rush.

To be fair, the setting helps. Famous writers like Byron, Shelley and Victor Hugo have all raved about Chamonix's charms and it is now consistently voted one of the top 10 ski resorts in the world.

Its ski areas cover three flanks of the valley, creating 153km of piste, more than 90 per cent of them above the 2,000ft mark and its lengthy season runs from December to May, and budget airlines make it easier to get there than ever.

Although more than two million tourists flock here every year, the resort remains definably French, perhaps because it is a proper working town and not one that shuts down when the skiing is done. In summer, the focus switches to golf, walking and climbing and just as many tourists, from France and beyond, visit then too.

Chamonix, with Mont Blanc looking on, feels more authentic and lacking in pretension than the average ski resort. Combine its charms and character with the magical setting of Chalets Philippes, and you probably have the ski holiday of a lifetime.

Travel facts...

Nicola Boden was a guest of Pollen-Brooks Leisure which operates seven-night B&B breaks in Chamonix from £300 per person in one bedroomed mazos (two sharing), larger chalets from £800, VIP service from £1,400, all prices for rental only. Reservations: 01344 849 135

Chamonix is about an hour's drive from Geneva, which has easyJet flights from Gatwick, Luton, Stansted, Bristol, Edinburgh, Newcastle, Belfast, Liverpool and Nottingham East Midlands. Details on www.easyJet.com